Struggling with Bias Binding?
Sick of Getting Pin Pricks ?
Here's How do it the easy way.

If you're looking at this Bias Binding Foot, chances are...

• You can do bindings the traditional way, but would like to a quicker method.
  
• You love the neat finish binding gives, but struggle to create a neat result yourself.
  
• You're sick & tired of unpicking failed binidng attempts  - there's got to be an easier way!
  

You're Not Alone. Most People have trouble with Bias Bindings - because they seem to have a mind of their own.

That's where the headaches start. To get the long snake-y thingie under control, you pin the damned thing. A million times.

And of course - this happens when you go to sew it.  Ouch!



What if sewing on bias binding  could be easier than you think?

No more "ouch" from pin prick, and NEVER have failed attempts to unpick - ever again?

Often the hard part is to come up with exactly the right tool, for the right job, at the right price. Of course, there is no doubt that in order to create beautiful things, you need to practice.....

But the first step in creating professional finishing is having the right tools.

The Secret Weapon that takes the stress out of sewing on binding is a Universal Adjustable Binding Foot.

This foot simply snaps on - like all the other feet that came with your machine!



The full name is "Universal Adjustable Tape / Bias Binding Foot".

A VERY specialised tool, all this foot does is put bindings around the cut edge of the fabric (often a contrast colour, might even be in completely different weight / type).

Using this foot ensures your binding is always neat and professional-looking; without any hand tacking or excessive pinning.

This Foot is Designed to fit most Janome (7mm & 5mm), it is also good for Elna, Brother, Singer, plus other brands - simply snap it on, just like all the other feet that came with your machine!


Equivalent to Janome Part numer 202-311-009 (known as "Taping Guide Foot)


Fits  7mm Low Shank Janome:

2160DC, 3160QDC, 4120QDC, 6260QC, CS995, 19110, DC2101, DC2050, DC2150, DC2200, DC3018, DC3050, DC3100, DC4030, DC6030, DC6050, DC6100, DM7200, DC7100, DC7060, MS5027LE, MW3018LE (MyExcel 18W), 4618, 4618QC, 5018, 5024, 5027, 5124, 6019QC, 6125QC, 6260QC, 652, 653, 654, 655, 655R (150), 659, MC3000, MC3500, MC4000, MC4800, MC4800QC, MC4900QC, MC5200, MC5500, MC5900QC, MC6000, MC6500P, ME4014, ME4015, ME4018, ME4123, Memory 7 (5001), MS2028, MS2522, MX3123, SD2014, SR2000, SS2015, SW2018, plus More.

And fits  5mm Low Shank Janome:

JR1012, RE1306, Jem Gold, Jem Gold 2, Jem Platinum720 (JP720), Jem Platinum760 (JP760), Sewist 509, Sewist 521, Sewist 625E, 1008, 415, 419S, Juno SS107, MS2008, RE1706, S-307, S-313, S-323S, plus More.

Also fits  Elna: Elina 40, 3230, 320, ELJ3210 (Easy Jeans), Lotus (Computerised), 520, 540, 660, 720, 740, 8600, 9600, plus More.

Best of all, it will even fit your premium models with 7mm High Shank - MC6600P, Skyline S3, MC11000, MC10000, MC10001, MC11000SE, MC5000, MC5700, MC7700QCP, MC8000, MC9000, MC9500, MC9700, plus More.

NOTE:  Fits Skyline S3 (but NOT for 9mm machines like Skyline S5, S7, or S9).




Is this a Genuine Janome Foot?

Unlike some others in the market, this foot is made by the same people that makes branded sewing machine parts. At the same factory where sewing machine companies gets their parts made and packaged - located only a few minutes down the road from one of the BEST sewing machine factory in Taiwan.

This company is a third-generation family business that specialises in presser feet and parts. They are one of the few  certified makers for well-known sewing machine brands. That means you can trust the quality too.

I've personally visited the factory to verify for myself. I was genuinely impressed because of their a high quality assurance of Japanese standard - where the best sewing machines are still being made.

The  only difference is in the packaging - we had ours packaged under our own brand.

This means I'm  100% happy and confident that you and your sewing machine are in safe hands - because I recommend this foot to all my students, and use it for my own sewing too!

So do our happy customers - here's  just one of many reviews:

The Trouble with Binding Starts...

When your project calls for binding to finish its raw edge, normally the binding itself has to be cut on a bias (which means diagonally to the straight grain of your fabric).

Bindings cut on the bias have the most amount of flexibility so it can go around curves like neckline and armholes smoothly.

The down side of having this flexibility means plenty of movements...... and that means your binding will stretch and wiggle as if it has a life of its own!

Imagine trying to get it to follow your curved edges precisely, while doing your best to make sure your stitches are neat, even, AND catching ALL layers. Not to mention the Unpicking!


So, What's a Sewist to Do?







This Generic Universal Adjustable Binding Foot will soon be your indispensable companion:

NOTE: You May Have Seen a "Cone" Shaped Metal Attachment for Bias Binding.

That looks nothing like this one here. So what's the difference?

Well, Here's what a budding seamstress finds when she tried on the "cone" type:




What makes this foot "universal"? How does it adjust?

Take a closer look, you will see two adjustable screws or "dials".

The screw or "dial" closest to the red marking is where you can make adjustments to suit the width of your binding (which has been pressed into its finished size ready to go).

As you move the screw or "dial" in or out, you will see the slot in front of the presser foot change size...

This is the slot where you "feed" your binding through.

The red markings are in millimeters (mm), so it's easy to adjust it to suit bindings with widths that ranges from 5mm to 18mm (see note below)*.... this means you're covered for most sewing projects imaginable!







How do you work out the correct binding width & adjust the foot accordingly?

First, measure your binding folded , as if it is already finished. That's your binding width.


The true "reading" should be at the end of the screw (you can see it through the plastic), and NOT the faint line which is the edge of the plastic guide (they looks like two little triangles when you look at the foot from the front). Hope you can see from the picture above....

So when you adjusted the foot to the maximum it will go, it actually looks like there is a line that stops at just over 10mm (that's the faint line mentioned above), but if you look at it from the front (where the bindings go in), there is more room for a wider binding.

The end of the screw finishes a bit over the 15mm marking. It won't go any further because there is no more thread on the screw. So does that mean you can only do bindings up to 15mm wide? Not necessarily.

If you measure the actual slot width, from the little folded "lips" on the left hand side to the end at the right hand side, and the maximum measurement is in fact 17-18mm (which covers most store-bought binding widths anyway).



Now, what does that other screw or "dial" do?

It determines where your stitching goes in relation to your binding.

Would you like it really close to the edge? Or a bit further?
You can change this by adjusting this screw / dial, or change your needle position instead. Next, feed your binding through the slot....



..... and place your fabric BETWEEN the opening of your binding and start sewing.

It's as simple as that!

 




This method may or may not suit your project, because each fabric is different. Give yours a try.....







When you try sewing your binding on WITHOUT this foot, you will find:

1. You end up with "gaps" where the bindings miss the fabric.
2. Your curve lines turn out "bumpy" instead of smooth.
3. Now, you either resolve to pinning the living daylight out of it (and do your best to avoid pin pricks), or simply hand-tacking it all the way. Not fun....
4. Worst of all: you go to unpick the problem area for the zillionth time, only to find that you've got a permanent perforation (from all your previous unpick attempts) where your stitches should be. So you'd have to start all over again....!

Why?

Because the weave of your fabric can only withstand a limited amount of manipulation, especially on a curve!

You see, each time you push the fabric through the machine, the needle & thread push aside the fibres, create holes and "lodge" themselves in to your fabric.

Which means each time you remove an unsuccessful attempt, some of the holes are left behind.....

This causes stress and affects the weave in your fabric, and that's where your problem begins... put your pattern against your piece now and you will see that all the unpicking has cause enough distortion. Oh NO!




So, What's a Budding Seamstress to Do?

Get a Universal Adjustable Binding Foot and Experience the Difference for yourself...!

What this method does is simply feed your binding and fabric through as you stitch them, eliminating the need for pinning or basting.

That means... No More Wasted Time or Unpicking!



Keen To Try It Out For Yourself?




 

Grab yours now and you can experience:

• Handle binding on anything - Done Quickly & Easily.
• Save Time and Get your project done - already!
  
• Do it Right in the first place - so you can Avoid Unpicking :-)
• A sense of achievement , because you've solved your own problem.
• No more frustration - just you and your sewing machine enjoying a stress-free time!
  
• Be proud and tell everyone: "I made this!"
  

Simply  Click The Add To Cart Button To Get Yours Now!